Climber Tours

Chopicalqui + Yanapaccha + Pisco + Mateo

Lakes to visit on this expedition:

Lake Wilcacocha 12,287ft / 3745m.
Lake Churup 14,600ft / 4450m.
Lake Matacocha 15,814ft / 4820m.

Summits attempts on this expedition:

Mateo 16,896ft / 5150m.
Pisco 18,871ft / 5752m.
Yanapaccha 17,910ft / 5460m.
Chopicalqui 20,846ft / 6354m.

Mateo is the fifth summit of Contrahierbas. The proximity to the Punta Olmpica tunnel makes it an ideal target for improving the acclimatization process, aiming for higher peaks. The view from its summit is breathtaking and enables us to view Contrahierbas, Chopicalqui, Huascarán Sur, and Ulta.
Pisco or Mataraju (as it is known by locals) is one of the most popular peaks in the entire Cordillera Blanca. Its proximity to the Peru Refuge facilitates its access. The Cordillera Blanca’s best view point is considered to be its summit.
Yanapaccha is another of the most visited mountains in the Cordillera Blanca. Its slopes are frequently used for mountaineering courses. The proximity of the road that crosses Portachuelo makes it very easy to access.
Chopicalqui is the third peak of the snow-capped Huascarán massif. It is also one of the most accessible six-thousanders (over 20,000 feet) in the Cordillera Blanca and is the perfect ending to this circuit of classic mountains.

Difficulty

UIAA global difficulties grade system as a whole are more or less the description and classification of the environment in which the route you want to climb is located. They are necessary when the environment presents some characteristics for which it is not sufficient to give only an assessment of the technical difficulties but it must take into
account the factors related to:
• length of the route.
• type of gear placement.
• possibility of retreat.
• isolation.
• approach and descent.
• objective dangers.
• route finding and other factors that weigh heavily on the success of ascent.
This concept is mainly related to the letters F, PD, AD, D, TD, ED, EX (see table below). Adding a “+” or a “-” sign can be used to better adjust the degree. For example, an AD- route will be slightly harder than a PD+.

Grade Description
F
Facile (Easy). Slopes (rock, snow and/or ice), provided below 30 degrees moderate slopes, which amounted progress (in snow sometimes ax). Climbs easy. Some sections in crevassed glacier. Experienced mountaineers can climb without rope.
PD
Peu Difficile (Bit Difficult). Outstanding (rock, snow and/or ice) with steep slopes always higher than 30 degrees, although walking up. Edges and narrow ridges and air. Climbs of difficulty. Glaciers cracked. Use of the rope may be necessary in more than one occasion.
AD
Assez Difficile (Difficult). Long earrings (rock, snow and/or ice) with steep slopes always superior to 30 degrees, although they can walk up. Edges and narrow ridges and air. Even moderately difficult climbs vertical terrain. Very complicated cracked and glaciers. Mandatory use of rope.
D
Difficile (Hard). Climbing maintained both in rock, ice or snow. Only for experienced mountaineers.
TD
Très Difficile (Very Difficult). Complicated technical climbs and climbs on any terrain with classic climbing. Considerable length, vertical or overhanging slopes, very high exposure, many in remote locations and required technique.
ED
Extrêmement Difficile (Extremely Difficult). Huge exposure, long-term and in remote locations.
EX
Exceptionnellement Difficile (Exceptionally Difficult). Simply harder than ED.

Strength

This grading system is based on the physical effort of the ascent according to distance traveled for the approach, ascent and descent altitude.

Grade Description
1/6
Ascended altitude from 0 to 1,600ft/500m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 3mi/5Km.
2/6
Ascended altitude from 1,600ft/500m to 3,300ft/1000m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 6mi/10Km.
3/6
Ascended altitude from 3,300ft/1000m to 4,900ft/1500m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 9mi/15Km.
4/6
Ascended altitude from 4,900ft/1500m to 6,500ft/2000m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 12mi/20Km.
5/6
Ascended altitude from 6,500ft/2000m to 8,200ft/2500m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 15mi/25Km.
6/6
Ascended altitude over 8,200ft/2500m or tours/treks with a daily distance over 15mi/25Km.

Attempts

Every summit will be attempted considering the safety of the clients a first priority. During an ascent we will consider the necessary time to summit within safety margins, weather conditions, objective risk (i.e rock fall, avalanches, etc.), to minimize the risk of the clients or their property. We will also consider cancel a summit attempt based on clients request.

Rest days

These are scheduled days to relax and recover after hard days . It is time for meditation, contemplation and enjoying the landscape. If they are scheduled while in a hotel/hostal is ideal to take advantage of resting in bed, take long showers or any other activity that allows time to energize.

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