Climber Tours

Alpamayo + Quitaraju + Huarapasca

Lakes to visit on this expedition:

Lake Radian 12,792ft / 3899m.
Lake Ahuac 14,928ft / 4550m.
Lake Ichiccocha 12,760ft / 3889m.
Lake Jatuncocha 12,874ft / 3924m.
Lake Arhuaycocha 14,764ft / 4500m.

Summits attempts on this expedition:

Huarapasca 17,757ft / 5420m.
Alpamayo 19,511ft / 5947m.
Quitaraju 19,803ft / 6036m.

Huarapasca presents an excellent addition to the acclimatization stage. With slopes of up to 60°, it will serve not only to adapt our bodies to the altitude but will also allow us to warm up in the climbing technique that the following challenges will demand of us.
Alpamayo or Shuyturaju, considered the most beautiful mountain in the world, is exciting and aesthetic. Its southwest face, where we will try to reach the summit, with its classic flute-shaped channels, tilts up to 70° and requires a good amount of mountaineering skills, which is why it is considered a true mountain for mountaineers.
Quitaraju, like icing on the cake, perfectly complements this expedition. Being of the same difficulty as Alpamayo, it is higher with its 19,803ft / 6036m, is a climb of greater magnitude. Its north face is a direct line towards the sky and its summit will reward us with wonderful views.

Difficulty

UIAA global difficulties grade system as a whole are more or less the description and classification of the environment in which the route you want to climb is located. They are necessary when the environment presents some characteristics for which it is not sufficient to give only an assessment of the technical difficulties but it must take into
account the factors related to:
• length of the route.
• type of gear placement.
• possibility of retreat.
• isolation.
• approach and descent.
• objective dangers.
• route finding and other factors that weigh heavily on the success of ascent.
This concept is mainly related to the letters F, PD, AD, D, TD, ED, EX (see table below). Adding a “+” or a “-” sign can be used to better adjust the degree. For example, an AD- route will be slightly harder than a PD+.

Grade Description
F
Facile (Easy). Slopes (rock, snow and/or ice), provided below 30 degrees moderate slopes, which amounted progress (in snow sometimes ax). Climbs easy. Some sections in crevassed glacier. Experienced mountaineers can climb without rope.
PD
Peu Difficile (Bit Difficult). Outstanding (rock, snow and/or ice) with steep slopes always higher than 30 degrees, although walking up. Edges and narrow ridges and air. Climbs of difficulty. Glaciers cracked. Use of the rope may be necessary in more than one occasion.
AD
Assez Difficile (Difficult). Long earrings (rock, snow and/or ice) with steep slopes always superior to 30 degrees, although they can walk up. Edges and narrow ridges and air. Even moderately difficult climbs vertical terrain. Very complicated cracked and glaciers. Mandatory use of rope.
D
Difficile (Hard). Climbing maintained both in rock, ice or snow. Only for experienced mountaineers.
TD
Très Difficile (Very Difficult). Complicated technical climbs and climbs on any terrain with classic climbing. Considerable length, vertical or overhanging slopes, very high exposure, many in remote locations and required technique.
ED
Extrêmement Difficile (Extremely Difficult). Huge exposure, long-term and in remote locations.
EX
Exceptionnellement Difficile (Exceptionally Difficult). Simply harder than ED.

Strength

This grading system is based on the physical effort of the ascent according to distance traveled for the approach, ascent and descent altitude.

Grade Description
1/6
Ascended altitude from 0 to 1,600ft/500m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 3mi/5Km.
2/6
Ascended altitude from 1,600ft/500m to 3,300ft/1000m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 6mi/10Km.
3/6
Ascended altitude from 3,300ft/1000m to 4,900ft/1500m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 9mi/15Km.
4/6
Ascended altitude from 4,900ft/1500m to 6,500ft/2000m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 12mi/20Km.
5/6
Ascended altitude from 6,500ft/2000m to 8,200ft/2500m or tours/treks with a daily distance up to 15mi/25Km.
6/6
Ascended altitude over 8,200ft/2500m or tours/treks with a daily distance over 15mi/25Km.

Attempts

Every summit will be attempted considering the safety of the clients a first priority. During an ascent we will consider the necessary time to summit within safety margins, weather conditions, objective risk (i.e rock fall, avalanches, etc.), to minimize the risk of the clients or their property. We will also consider cancel a summit attempt based on clients request.

Rest days

These are scheduled days to relax and recover after hard days . It is time for meditation, contemplation and enjoying the landscape. If they are scheduled while in a hotel/hostal is ideal to take advantage of resting in bed, take long showers or any other activity that allows time to energize.

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